Back to Black

[my3pedalchevy]

I was wondering what is the best way to use the Back to Black product?
Simple question it may be simple but whats the best way to use it?

[admin]

Trim should be clean -- especially oxidized or porous surfaces. Use a split-bristled or fine brush if necessary. You can do this as a preliminary step before a thorough wash.

Apply Back-to-Black to a dry surface with a microfiber cloth or applicator, a terry cloth, or a foam paint brush. Under some circumstances, you might mist it on with a fine sprayer using sweeping motions. Be careful of overspray as it can smear; use a detail spray to clean up.

Let product penetrate a few minutes (or while you polish/wax) and buff to a soft shine.

[my3pedalchevy]

is that (polish/ buff) polishing or buffing the car or rubing in the back to black
when the product dries on the trim, then that is when i would wipe off correct?
and when do you know when you have wiped the product off enough?

[admin]

Different types of trim will require a little bit different approach; at least they may respond differently and absorb the product differently.

Pour a little product on an applicator and massage it into the surface so coverage looks thorough and even. It will generally appear shiny and wet.

Let it penetrate several minutes -- sometimes longer on neglected trim; apply more if necessary.

Buff with a clean cloth, either microfiber or plush terry -- something with a nap -- use light strokes along the length of the trim piece to produce a "like new" look. You don't want it to look greasy, which will also cause it to run if it gets wet.

Though there's no exact right way to do it as different approaches may work, the basic principle of thorough coverage and removing excess comes into play.

[my3pedalchevy]

Sounds good thanks
I was just considering to try some because that is one of the worst parts about a fresh detailed car is when the trim looks bad but the rest looks great

[admin]

Keep in mind that on a new car, you've got less of a challenge to make the trim look good.

Of course, this is also about prevention of damage, so it's still a good idea to use it every so often, and when you wax is a great opportunity.

[my3pedalchevy]

I use the back to black product on a detail that I did for a friend and The info really helped and I think it turned out great
I will be putting before and after pics of the detail later on.
Thanks for the info.

[Alfisti]

Just to add to the above a couple of 'must-do's', IME. This is for textured trim...smooth shiny trim behaves differently. (I prefer to use something other than a dressing on that.)

On dull trim use a terry towel, not MF. The cotton has more 'bite' to it and helps clean up the trim better.

Leave it on for an hour, then wipe off residue with a terry towel again. (I find cotton terry towels work best with dressings on trim/rubber. They tend to absorb more of the residue.)

Apply a second coat and repeat the above.

Very important to remove ALL remnants of residue on last coat. Wipe well with multiple passes. This will ensure it won't streak or wash off in the rain. If it does, it may mean it wasn't wiped off well enough.

I've had really poor trim stay black for 3 months+ with this method. And with every subsequent re-application, the trim seemed more restored than the last time. Over time it should look, and stay, new.

[my3pedalchevy]

Thanks for the added detail
How much of the B2B do I need to apply?
just enough to cover and do it a couple of times or
put it on heavy and let it settle for a while then take off.
Which is better

[admin]

Use just enough to provide thorough coverage. No need to waste it.

[my3pedalchevy]

Ok sounds good I used for the first time the other day and I dont know if this was right but what I was using it on was not completely black.
So I couldnt quiet tell how much to put on.
Was I correct in putting it on the rag and then when I seemed like the trim wasnt getting any on it I needed to add more on the rag?
Im sure I might be making it more difficult than It is I just want to make sure Im getting the most out of the product since it did cost $6

[admin]

Back-to-Black can be used on trim of various colors, and is especially good on dull, faded or oxidized pieces.

Apply enough to change the dull look to a rich or wet look. If it absorbs within a few minutes -- that means its working to restore your trim, and you should let it penetrate a few minutes and apply a little more if necessary.

One thing you can do is apply it to the trim as you go around the entire car. Some trim will take a little more, some a little less -- trim is made out of various types of rubbers and plastics. You can also use it on your matte painted finishes such as wiper arms.

Change applicators as necessary.

Note that some oxidized rubber trim can turn the applicator black, which is normal since the damaged top layer of the rubber is being removed.

Once you have the product on all of the trim, double-check where you applied it in case some areas need a little more.

Finally, you're probably ready to start buffing lightly with a cotton terry towel to a natural look.

If you get Back-to-Black on any paint finishes, simply use an instant detailer.

[my3pedalchevy]

Thanks that makes more since.
I did what You said with the go around the whole car.
It was kind of weir because I would put some on and one half of the trim would soak it up and not show any b2b but the other half took it great
Thanks for the advice Ill definitley keep it in mind the next time I use it
And I WILL be posting this van that I did.
It was a 2001 Toyota Sienna
So you know that there was plenty of trim to b2b.

[admin]

It is to be expected that the composition of the many different types of trim will affect absorption of Back-to-Black (or most any trim product for that matter).

Applying Back-to-Black on a vehicle with neglected trim can be a bit of a task, but it's better than replacing trim -- I recently had the body shop replace the trim on two windows on my mothers Toyota (it was in for other work) and it was $180.

[my3pedalchevy]

that is ridiculous!

[TonyfromOz]

This is probably the most misunderstood product in the range, and why I say that is because people have differing expectations that probably stem from trying to use the product in an incorrect manner. That is no fault on the part of the user, but due in the main to heeding possibly erroneous advice from others, or using it in a similar manner to other car care products. The natural thing is to take care with your paint, and to that end, you use 'relatively' soft hands when applying and removing products.
With 'Back To Black' however, the product needs to be used in differing ways for the differing surfaces it works upon, the rubber surrounding for the front and rear screens and windows, and then for the textured trim, that is harder by nature.

Originally Posted by Alfisti

On dull trim use a terry towel, not MF. The cotton has more 'bite' to it and helps clean up the trim better.

Leave it on for an hour, then wipe off residue with a terry towel again. (I find cotton terry towels work best with dressings on trim/rubber. They tend to absorb more of the residue.)

Apply a second coat and repeat the above.

Very important to remove ALL remnants of residue on last coat. Wipe well with multiple passes. This will ensure it won't streak or wash off in the rain. If it does, it may mean it wasn't wiped off well enough.

I hope Paul won't mind if I trim his wording somewhat and highlight one sentence especially, because that is the key I have found.
For those hard vinyl trim pieces especially the textured ones, use terry cloth to apply, and also to remove, and where Paul says to 'wipe well', I might add that the soft hands routine that you take with your paint should be forgotten for adding some real 'oomph' when you wipe off, and I mean to really rub hard.
Where people do have an incorrect idea is that the product is in some way similar to paint, in that you just paint it on softly, and then leave it. Used in that manner, there is the possibility that if you were to drive in wet weather after the application, it will just run completely off. As Paul says, apply with a Terry cloth and then wait for a while, and as Paul mentions, make it an hour, and then wipe all the trim, not just those areas that look like they might still be damp, the whole trim.
Then, do the trim over again in the same manner.

For rubber surrounds use less pressure, but the time lines still apply.

Again, this is a product that can be used in conjunction with the 'detail guide.'
The whole work up for Back To Black can be used at a similar time line as the complete paint work up, say twice a year.
For those in between times. just like you top up your last step product on the paint every 8 to 12 weeks, then I have found that a single application of Protectant tops off the trim and brings the colour back.

For you guys and ladies just starting out with maybe an older car the task is one of restoration and then maintenance.
However, for new cars, the same process still applies. Because the car is new you might be under the impression that it doesn't need clay or a complete work up, when the opposite applies. If you get in at day one and work up completely, then from that point you have a perfect baseline to work from and to work with.
The same applies with your trim. Don't wait for it to start going dull.
As has been mentioned so often, Back To Black is a penetrating type of product.
Products you use on your paint, just work over the surface of your paint.
Back to Black penetrates into the trim, vinyl especially, and also stops it from drying out. That penetrating ability takes time to actually work.

Again, I've probably gone overboard with the explanation, but you need to look at each of the products in your arsenal with different eyes.
Product! Application! Removal! Accessories (MF Terry, Foam) for each of those steps.

Tony.

[abnot]

Similiar to what Alfisti says, I use terry cloth applicators to apply Back to Black. I assumed the terry cloth had more bite so it helped improve the absorption by ever so slightly remove any exterior barier on the plastic. On textured trim, I noticed I was not cleaning it well enough so I use a brush to be sure it is clean.

[my3pedalchevy]

Ive now use the product twice and I do all of these things and I just dont know if I am to pleased with the product.
I mean You can go over and over with the product but if there is one part of the trim that is really, and I mean really stubborn and dosent want to cooperate, it shows and makes it worse. Sometimes It seems as if the product isn't worth the while.
I detailed my dads van a 2000 Chevy Venture.
The paint turned out amazing but when B2B was used on the trim it look lik a half A** job.
Yea I could have spent Two hours on the trim and then went back and spent two more hours on the trim, But is it Worth It.
Yeah the bit that did come clean looks fantastic but the part that didnt come clean looks even worse in comparison.
I am only 18 and I have two jobs, and dont stop moving until Im in bed, then get up and do it again, I wish I had all of 12 hours for a detail but I dont, who does.
I just havent figured out this product yet.
But I love Mothers Paint products, and hope I can master this thanks for the advice Ill keep it in mind
By the way Summit racing has a great deal on Terry clothes I but a bundle of 12 for $9.00

[admin]

A photo or photos would be helpful.

Not all trim can be saved by Back-to-Black -- it does have it limitations. A 9-year-old vehicle is old enough to have permanent damage. You may need to try something else, or it may be that your trim needs to be refinished or replaced.

If the trim that is challenging you is textured and it also happens to be badly oxidized, be sure you clean it well with a suitable cleaner and a split-bristled brush. You may need to remove the oxidation for positive results.

Again, you may also be out of luck.

Without a photo it's tough to speculate much more without being repetitive.

[my3pedalchevy]

Will do Once i get a chance tonight