Have you seen the new PowerBall 4Paint on the shelf?
It’s the new way to easily wax a vehicle, and here’s why it works so well:
Body panels aren't flat any more. New vehicles have curves, compound angles and challenges a traditional flat buffer can't get to -- areas like recessed door handles, around mirrors, fog light openings, grilles, and between the rear spoiler and trunk deck, just to name a few of them. Thanks to the foam structure of the PowerBall 4Paint, it compresses to easily fit into those areas, applying a thin, even, coat of wax.
Does it really work? Absolutely. With a cordless drill, you can easily wax a vehicle anywhere. You're no longer tied to the garage, house or other source of electricity. PowerBall 4Paint leaves a thin, even, coat of wax. And since it uniformly covers the paint surface, the paint will have an even, swirl-free shine.
What type of cordless drill do I need? Most any cordless drill that offers a 300-500 rpm range provides an ideal application speed. High-torque, low-speed settings work best. Higher speeds are not recommended since product may sling. Think of the drill as your hand and arm doing the work slowly and methodically -- it's not a speed contest.
How long will the PowerBall 4Paint last? It's a tool, so how long it lasts can depend on how well you care for it. Washing after each use, allowing to dry before storing, and reversing the foam element are all ways to extend its life. Under normal use and proper care, you can expect a long life from your PowerBall 4Paint.
How to Use:
• Wash and dry the vehicle – make sure you use a quality car wash concentrate, proper wash mitt, and quality terry cloth or microfiber towels to dry.
• Apply a small amount of your favorite wax to the crown of the PowerBall 4Paint (the end opposite where it attaches to the drill).
• Place the PowerBall 4Paint on the surface and slowly start the drill, working up to a low speed of about 300-500 rpm, moving it back and forth over the area to be waxed.
• Work in small sections and replenish wax as needed to maintain consistent application.
• Allow the section to dry to a light haze, then buff with a quality terry cloth or microfiber.
Tips:
• Keep the ball moving to apply a thin, even coat of wax.
• Low speed is better, and will help prevent slinging of wax.
• Tape-off trim areas before waxing with painter’s tape, or apply a coat of protectant or trim dressing to prevent possible staining of the trim, making clean-up easier.
• Disassemble and wash PowerBall 4Paint after each use in a bucket with dish soap and warm water using a combination of soaking and gentle squeezing. Rinse under running water until the water is clean. Repeat if necessary. Squeeze gently to remove excess water and let dry thoroughly in open air. Reverse the foam element before reassembling and storing in its container.
• Run the drill only in a clockwise direction.
Any questions? Check out the online resources at www.waxforum.com for answers on this and other car care topics.
TonyfromOz was kind enough to put together a series of videos on using the PowerBall 4Paint, from selection of an appropriate drill, to using various products, to cleanup.
Video 1: Introduction
Video 2: Drill Selection
Video 3: Drill Demonstration
Video 4: Using FX SynWax and Tips to Prevent Slinging
Video 5: Using liquid Carnauba Cleaner Wax - Front of Vehicle
Video 6: Using a Paste Wax - Rear of Vehicle
Video 6: Cleanup
Last edited by admin; 03-30-2008 at 01:52 PM.
Reason: Updated Video 2 on Drill Selection
These are very nice how to video's. I noticed Tony had the needed shop accessories (something to protect your knees when kneeling and a chair) for comfort. This would make a good gift idea.
Does PowerBall 4Paint have any paint correction capabilites?
Grabby
Think of any challenges you may be able to remove by hand, but with less effort -- in other words, to some extent, but it won't replace a high-speed random-orbital. It's more on par with inexpensive consumer random-orbitals, but better in the sense that you don't have to deal with bonnets, nor do you have to spend a lot of money.
However, you can use PowerBall 4Paint with Pre-Wax Cleaner or PowerPolish to remove a surprising amount of light oxidation and to clean and lightly polish paint.
And you can also use it with the Ultimate Wax System - Pre-Wax Cleaner, Sealer & Glaze and Pure Carnauba Wax.
Getting ready for my first time use of the PowerBall 4Paint. Based on what I've learned, I'm going to use the following settings on my new drill:
1. Speed setting: 1 for paint. 1 or 2 for metal. (My drill goes from 1-3.)
2. Torque setting: 3 (My drill goes up to 16.)
3. Screw or drill setting: Drill
4. Clockwise/counterclockwise setting: Clockwise.
Also, should I consider using a separate PowerBall 4Paint for Prewax Cleaner, Sealer & Glaze, and Carnuba Wax? In effect using 3 powerballs for the 3-phase process?
You want the slowest speed range. This is desirable because at full trigger you should be at a minimum of about 300, yet under 400rpm or so. At anything less than full trigger it gets tough to maintain a constant speed, so you want a range that is in there at full trigger. Faster isn't necessarily bad, but product starts slinging at speeds much faster than that, and it's a mess you don't need.
Torque setting doesn't matter much, but 3 is a good start. If the clutch slips under normal use, increase it a bit. Should you be polishing in areas that are tight, you want the clutch to slip so that you don't risk damaging the ball.
Screw setting would likely be a component of torque setting, and we covered that above. Drill setting would offer no clutch slipping.
Clockwise is always desired when using a PowerBall product -- counter-clockwise will unscrew the bit from the ball, and you don't want that unless you're going to disassemble it for cleaning.
My thanks for a quick and most thorough response. By the way, does my theory of having a separate Powerball 4Paint for Pre-wax Cleaner, Sealer & Glaze, and Carnuba Wax have merit?
My thanks for a quick and most thorough response. By the way, does my theory of having a separate Powerball 4Paint for Pre-wax Cleaner, Sealer & Glaze, and Carnuba Wax have merit?
Regards,
Ashton
So long as you disassemble and wash it thoroughly in warm water with a grease-cutting cleaner or dish soap, you can re-use it for any products you like.
Once the bit is removed from the center and washes in warm sudsy water, the ball will return to its original cylindrical shape and allow more thorough cleaning. Squeeze it gently by hand and work the product out of the foam. Repeat if necessary, and rinse thoroughly. Squeeze to dry, and wrap in an absorbent towel and squeeze again. Reassemble and you should be good to go for the next product.
In addition to my PowerBall 4Paint I have a Dual Action (DA) Polisher with yellow pad for polishing and black pad for finishing (sealant/wax). Based on the above response to Grabby, would you agree then that I'm probably going to see better results using my DA Polisher (with yellow pad) to apply the Pre-wax Cleaner then use my PowerBall 4Paint for the Sealer & Glaze and Carnauba Wax application? Thanks for your help.
In addition to my PowerBall 4Paint I have a Dual Action (DA) Polisher with yellow pad for polishing and black pad for finishing (sealant/wax). Based on the above response to Grabby, would you agree then that I'm probably going to see better results using my DA Polisher (with yellow pad) to apply the Pre-wax Cleaner then use my PowerBall 4Paint for the Sealer & Glaze and Carnauba Wax application? Thanks for your help.
Ashton
Given those constraints, you may find the Sealer & Glaze would be best applied with the black pad, and the Pure Carnauba Wax with the PowerBall 4Paint.
You would want the softest applicator to apply the pure wax over the glaze, and that would be the PowerBall 4Paint.
The yellow pad is a cutting pad. You should apply with a finishing pad (black). A white pad can be too much on some softer paints.
You've got a point.
With some products, a yellow pad will remove defects, but it may also introduce polishing marks which you would remove with another step, such as with a white polishing pad (or sometimes something softer).
Pre-Wax Cleaner may not pose too much of a challenge with a yellow pad.
Some experimentation in a test area would be recommended until the proper outcome is achieved.
Last edited by admin; 01-15-2009 at 05:48 PM.
Reason: clarification in paragraph 2
Thank you Admin and Abnot for a quick response. My Dual Action polisher uses three different pads: a cutting pad (burgundy), a polishing pad (yellow), and a finishing pad (black). (I stay away from the burgundy cutting pad because I'm still a novice at using machines.) So if I understand what you both said above, the following should work with minimal risks, shouldn't it?
1. For preparing the paint surface (swirl removal and minor defects): Use Pre-Wax Cleaner with the DA and a yellow pad. (Remember, my yellow pad is not a cutting pad.)
2. For polishing the paint surface: Use Sealer & Glaze with DA and a black pad.
3. For protecting the paint surface: Use Carnauba Wax with PowerBall 4Paint; or DA polisher with black pad.
Am I on the right track? Thanks for your patience.
For clarification, I was talking in terms of Lake Country, our pad of choice.
So the color coding would not necessarily hold true.
But at this point, you're somewhat splitting hairs. Based on what we've discussed already, you should be equipped to try whichever pad you feel will be best for the product you want to use and the challenge at hand.
I would do a test panel with the polishing pad and pre-wax cleaner and then do a good inspection to be sure there is no marring or reduction in gloss from the pad before proceding to do the entire vehicle. This will be sure your pads and technique are right.