Help getting my tie rod dissconnected..please!

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 08:02 AM

Ok, I have tried beating all around on the strut and tried beating the tie rod out with a bear filled rubber mallet. Not even a budge.

p.s. I am installing drop springs not changing the tie rod.

Here is what it looks like.

I am afraid if I do this I will mess up the threads.

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 08:06 AM

first a question. How many miles? It may be beneficial to go ahead and change them anyhow. it is not that expensive and if you mark the thread where it screw onto the inner tie rod, you shouldn`t need to get it realigned. as far as removal goes, pic up a 2 jaw puller or tie rod seperator (looks like a tuning fork)

Eric

*note* I like to replace them just so that you can grease them regularly. I will never know why they went to sealed type :dunno

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 08:13 AM

They should be fine cause I only have 16000 miles on the car. Everyone that has attempted to use the fork seperater tool has torn their boot also. I have some PB Blaster soaking on it so at lunch I am goig to try it again.

And I have no idea why they are sealed. I like the option to grease them also.

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 08:20 AM

Are you sure the pb blaster will not ruin the boot? Have you seen what that stuff will do to a styrofoam cup :eek I believe no matter what, you may have to apply more force from the bottom as they are pressed in :dunno

Eric

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 08:25 AM

Yeah, that stuff will be cool on the rubber boot. I have been using it for years on just about anythign and everything.

I am thinking of taking a 2x4 between the bottom bolt and my hammer and see if I can pound it out that way.

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 08:31 AM

if you are really trying to be careful, then I would pic up a small puller (if you do not have one) it is the easiest and safest way to go.

Eric

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 08:34 AM

Cool, thanks man! I never thought of that. That should work.

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 09:05 AM

yeah they run about $15 - $30 depending where you go. I know that all the autoparts stores do have them

Eric

**wifehatescar** · 06-04-2004, 10:36 AM

Beat on the nut with a hammer, not the threaded rod. Worst case you will need a new nut. Or, borrow a ball joint fork (pickle fork, whatever) from the auto store, this is actually the proper tool to use. With it you hammer the fork, thus not damaging the tie rod. Email me if you need more info...

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 10:44 AM

read a few post`s up steve

he said he knows people who have torn the boot doing it that way :dunno

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 10:49 AM

Yea, this was the guys other side that he did with a fork.

**wifehatescar** · 06-04-2004, 11:04 AM

Well how about the beat on the nut method (screw nut on a couple turns to where it`s on but not to where the thread sticks out of the top of the nut)--- worst case you mess up the nut. The threads are unharmed.

**wifehatescar** · 06-04-2004, 11:05 AM

or the hammer the 2x4 thing might do it too. It needs alot of force to seperate one way or another.....

**Bob** · 06-04-2004, 11:07 AM

The threads won`t get f*cked if I do that? I might give that a shot first then.

**elortt** · 06-04-2004, 11:12 AM

I would go with the puller myself. I used one to change lower balljoint on my car a couple weeks ago. I do not like to swing a hammer anywhere near my car, accidents happen. Not only that but you look as though you just have it up on stands so you are limited with space JMO

Eric