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  1. #1
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    Last Tips on Rotary

    Well im going to go use my rotary on my truck.

    Wash
    Clay
    Wash

    Then.......
    Plan on using ssr2 with a slight cutting pad, then ssr1 with a polishing pad, then ex by hand. Then wax it tomorrow.

    I dont plan on going over the lowest RPM with my dewalt except if i have a trouble spot with a scratch etc.

    I just was wondering if there are any last pointers before i go out there. Other than taping off the trim etc. Its been a few years since i`ve done detailing with a rotary, but did have experience with it before.
    Last edited by dtailthis2; 06-24-2004 at 03:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    I`d like some too. My two practice fenders are finally here! ::headbang
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  3. #3
    Beautification Specialist dr_detail's Avatar
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    It might be a good idea that after the buffing and before the hand application of product that the vehicle be rinsed off and dried -- my $0.02 :-p

    Do let us all know how it comes out, & post some before and after`s if ya can.

    Good luck and I`ll say a prayer for ya
    A happy customer tells a friend ... An unhappy one tells many friends !!!

    Gim-me a car with finns... :naughty and I`ll shows ya what detailin`s all about... :jump

  4. #4
    My L5-S1 is killing me! wifehatescar's Avatar
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    I actually just tried my rotary for the first time to on a section of my hood. It actually cut less than I thought it would (so far):dunno
    1500rpm, yellow pad, DACP
    We can rebuild him. We have the capability to make the world’s first bionic man. Better than he was before. Better Stronger Faster

  5. #5
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    Originally posted by wifehatescar
    I actually just tried my rotary for the first time to on a section of my hood. It actually cut less than I thought it would (so far):dunno
    1500rpm, yellow pad, DACP
    Crank it up to 3000 rpms and see how fast it cuts :-D J/k

    A few tips.

    Don`t go over edges you can`t see.

    Tape off trim and throw towels over the wipers, etc. It`ll help protect the trim and it helps clean up as the rotary does produce a good bit of fling off.

    If the pad starts jumping off the paint, abort!

    Watch out for anything the pad can grab and jump off the paint... I was doing a boat and mine caught a screw and hit me in the face. Laid me out on the ground... lol...

    Use a stiff brush to clean the pad when it starts getting caked up!

    Also don`t need to load the pad up with a lot of product. It`ll just cause a lot of fling off!

    When the pad is spinning, keep it moving on the paint. Don`t stop.

  6. #6
    Owner and Tech. Rep Nickc0844's Avatar
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    If you have 2 polishing pads, I would probably go that route, especially if it is your first time. :dunno SSR2 will bite that much more with the heat from a rotary. I just don`t want you to create more work for yourself.
    Nick Carberry
    ~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~

  7. #7
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    i only have one polishing pad. i have a slight cutting pad, the lowest one or the second to lowest on the edge system before the polishing, and a finishing pad.

    If i used the polishing pad with ssr2.5, and wanted to clean the foam pad, how long would it take to dry after i cleaned it off with some water and mild soap? You think i could tackle the interior while it dries? I mean how long does foam take to dry?


    Im probably gonna skip the cutting pad, just use it on trouble spots very carefully and not near any edges till i get the feel of the wheel again.

    Two question i have about other things i saw on DC. Whats with steel wool on leather? How do you use the rotary on windows?

    Thanks guys.

  8. #8
    Owner and Tech. Rep Nickc0844's Avatar
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    Talk about the colors of the pad. I`m assuming your light cut is the yellow pad. Then do you have a blue or green? If you cut with yellow, sometimes it is hard to go to polishing with blue because you skip a texture...see what I mean?

    You could tackle the interior while it dries. I would attempt a spin dry on the rotary to aid that. If you have the Edge quick connect system, I`d definitely let it go on the rotary with some speed. Judge it from there, but a little moisture will only help the product spread better.

    I would skip the hassle of messing up another pad to just do it in spots...you don`t want a blotchy finish. Just work the product in a little longer in the trouble areas, if that doesn`t work, then you know you need a stronger pad or product. ALWAYS TEST YOUR AREAS FIRST!!

    Personally, I wouldn`t take a rotary to a window.....
    As for the Steel Wool on Leather, I saw that too and it sounds scary....
    :dunno
    Nick Carberry
    ~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~

  9. #9
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    i have the blue, green and white pads. I was planning on doing PWC with the white. Before that i was thinking ssr2.5 with the blue, and ssr1 with the green. Then topping it all with EX.

    Now im thinking ssr 2.5 with the blue, then flipping the pad and doing ssr1, then the PWC and EX.

    ??

  10. #10
    Owner and Tech. Rep Nickc0844's Avatar
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    hummm, if I`m not mistaken, Green is more abrasive than blue. I don`t consider green really a cutting pad. I would start SSR2.5 on Green, then SSR1 on blue. Skip PwC if doing it with SSR1 (Wet vs. Warm look), then EX either by hand or with the white pad. Just my 2 cents though :dunno
    Nick Carberry
    ~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~

  11. #11
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    so PWC give it the wet look and ssr1 give the warm? i had the pads mixed up, thanks for catching that.

    oh yea, steel wool on leather scares me too

 

 

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