Poorboy,
Thanks for the response. So ssr1 is mild enough that I don`t have to follow it with a SMR or equivalent? I was under the impression it was still a compound...
Poorboy,
Thanks for the response. So ssr1 is mild enough that I don`t have to follow it with a SMR or equivalent? I was under the impression it was still a compound...
I think Nick hit it right on the nose earlier sayingOriginally posted by Kincade
Poorboy,
Thanks for the response. So ssr1 is mild enough that I don`t have to follow it with a SMR or equivalent? I was under the impression it was still a compound...
"Poorboy`s SSR 1 and 2 are also POLISHES, whereas SSR3 is a POLISHING COMPOUND"
SSR1 is a very mild polish and refelective too.
I`ll probably be giving you a call in the next day or so - thanks for the advice!
SSR`s are paint safe, right? No residue or oils?
paint, glass, plastics, chrome....etc.. no residue ...no oils
Kincade, you`ll be impressed with SSR1....it almost leaves as wet of a look at Show Car Glaze, but as Steve said, without the residue fillers and stuff.
Nick Carberry
~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~
Here is my take on the differences, and these are up for discussion too.
A Compound is typically abrasive in manner and should only be used on neglected or harsh surfaces. One should only have to use this type product once a year on thier vehicle. This is effectively remove medium swirls and scratches. If you have oxidation, this is a good one!
A polish will clean the paint, remove mild swirls and scratches, and oxidation. This should be used after a compound, and in differentiating levels, to remove any hazing and/or marring left behind from the previous step. My rule of thumb is this, do not stop polishing until you have effectively removed 90% of your swirls.
A glaze is the first step in protection----or is it the last step in prepping :dunno People have different takes on it, but here is mine. A glaze is used to fill in those last 10% swirls that remain, replenish the nutrients to your surface, and leaves the ultimate "wet" look behind. Most are oily, but that is for a reason. Some glazes have "light" polishing abilities, but I think most of it is actually "filling" abilities.
I hope this answers some of your confusion, but if not, just hit us with some more ?`s.
Nick Carberry
~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~
I`m a noob so I may be off... but I think the easiest way to say it is a polish "cleans" the paint with maybe some mild cut properties....and glaze is more the step right after polishing and having some protective or finish or paint-moisturizing properties - a pre-sealent post-polish if you will.....the problem is many products blur the line between polish, glaze and sometimes sealent (ex AIO)...I think that`s right
I also heard you could put finishes on over the clear bra
Nick - thanks for the info. That`s kinda what I figured, but it`s a grey area... So i`ll probably either try the SSR1 or Menzerna FP - whichever I can get to me the quickest!
laird - I do think you can topcoat the clearbra as well, you just have to be careful not to burn it.
Kincade, I`m at the office now, but I detailed an 03` BMW 325 yesterday that had the clearbra on it. Email me if you would like pictures. It is very durable, and I took my PC right on it. However, I only used SSR1 for a polish on it, where as the rest of the car got SSR2, then 1. I would be hesitant to use an abrasive on that.
Last edited by Nickc0844; 03-18-2004 at 10:28 PM.
Nick Carberry
~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~
Nick,
I`d love a few photos, if you don`t mind! rock-dog@comcast.net
Thanks!
Kincade, you`ve got mail!
Nick Carberry
~Detailing high-end cars with quality products~
Nick where`s my pictures:boohoo
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks